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http://scene-chicago.com/scene/index.php/alopecia-totalis-awareness-by-dr-linda-amerson/ Trichologist Dr. Linda Amerson, founder of hairandscalpessentials.com performs a microscopic assessment.

Trichology is the science of the hair and scalp, their structures, diseases and functions. Every stylist should have a decent foundation in trichology, even if you’re the stylist working on your own hair.  And if you’re aspiring to be a hair genius, there’s no way around trichology!

For example, if you’re trying out a new style you’ve seen on YouTube, it’s important to know your hair type as compared to the hair type of the vlogger, right? If you have Type 3 hair, it isn’t going to do what Type 4 hair can do, and vice versa. Well, hair typing is only a very, very small part of trichology, as it deals with hair structure.

Hair structure also has to do with the components of the hair, such as the hair cuticle and hair cortex. With regard to the scalp, there is the hair root, the hair follicle and the surrounding supportive structures.

Why is this important? Knowledge of the structure of the hair and scalp lays the foundation for understanding their function. The healthy structures and proper functioning of the hair and scalp, in turn, help trichologists recognize the disease state, when it occurs.

Hair conditions usually start with the scalp. If the scalp isn’t doing its job correctly, there may be some obstructions to the hair growing out properly, and hair loss or hair breakage could be the end result. Alopecia fall into this category. 

However, there are scalp ailments that affect the hair only as secondary symptoms when left untreated, like dandruff.

So the scalp is very important. We’ll talk more about the scalp and its disease states a little later.

History of Trichology

If you thought a trichologist was a hair specialist, you’re right, literally. The “trich” part of trichology started off as “trikhos” in Greek, which means hair.

It looks like the British of the early 1900s thought “trich” sounded way better than “capillum,” which is Latin for hair. Capillum-ology is definitely a mouthful for “the science of hair.” And of course it had to sound scientific, not like hair-ology…

Speculation aside, para-medical (non-physician) hair science practitioners have been called trichologists since 1902. This is the year when the landmark College for Diseases of the Hair was founded in Britain. It would later be known as The Institute of Trichologists, as it is still called today.

And why did they go through all the trouble of founding such an institute? It’s simple: to beat hair loss.

Why Do People See a Trichologist?

Primarily, folks go to a trichologist because their hair is falling out. Ideally, a person with the symptoms of hair loss will go to a trichologist right away. Unfortunately, not many people know what the symptoms are. (The symptoms of hair loss are listed below, under Conditions That Affect the Hair.)

On the other hand, a person might go to a trichologist if they have itchy, burning scalp or  dandruff that’s way out of control.

In other words, if the problem isn’t super obvious, like hair that’s already falling out, or scalp that needs a brillo pad to scratch, we don’t usually look up a specialist.

It’s better to visit a trichologist when you first notice continued symptoms, than to wait until the issue develops into something that affects your social life and tampers with your self esteem – hair loss.

What Does a Trichologist Treat?

A trichologist treats the hair and scalp conditions mentioned above, and many others. Here are the main categories.

Conditions That Affect the Hair

With regards to the hair, a trichologist looks into the causes behind hair breakage, hair miniaturization (thinning in diameter) and hair thinning in density. All of these can be precursors to hair loss. A trichologist should be able to tell you which of these are:

• Leading to hair loss
• Standalone conditions not leading to hair loss
• Due to genetics, and leading to hair loss
• Symptoms of an internal medical issue, such as a hormonal imbalance, which may or may not lead to hair loss, depending on the condition.

So yes, it’s complicated. That’s why a trichologist is a specialist.

If the trichologist determines the hair symptoms you are experiencing i.e., breakage, miniaturization or thinning, are due to a form of alopecia/hair loss, or not, she will treat you accordingly.

Below are the different types of alopecias. Each alopecia originates in the hair follicles of the scalp.

Included are notes on the alopecias that greatly affect African American women.

1. Cicatricial, or scarring, alopecias. Unfortunately, scarring alopecias are synonymous with  permanent hair loss.Note: Out of the different kinds of cicatricial alopecias, one form, central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA), affects 30-40% of black women. It begins at the top or crown of the head. Like other forms of cicatricial alopecias, once the hair is shed, the loss is permanent.Note: Frontal fibrosing alopecia is another cicatricial alopecia that affects black women. With this, the hairline recedes and leaves scarring.Hair chemicals and tension are possible causes for both of these scarring alopecias.
2. Noncicatricial – non-scarring alopecias. This can be genetic, female pattern hair loss, which is characterized by hair loss in the crown for women. If the cause isn’t genetic, non-scarring alopecias usually have an underlying medical reason.
3. Diffuse alopecias. These instances of heavy breakage or shedding can be caused by underlying health issues or chemotherapy.
4. Trauma alopecias. This signifies some type of physical harm done to the hair or scalp.Note: Traction alopecia, breakage and hair loss around the scalp margin due to tension and inflammation of the hair follicles, falls into this category. Approximately 1/3 of African American women have traction alopecia due to chemical and style-related trauma like relaxers and tight braids. Traction alopecia does not usually signify permanent hair loss, but if the traction continues, it can lead to it.

While the word alopecia means hair loss, normally the hair doesn’t fall out right away. Instead it passes through different stages of breaking, miniaturization and thinning until it eventually falls out. If your hair is already falling out by the time you visit a trichologist, you may have already reached the latter stages of the condition that’s causing it.

Conditions That Primarily Affect the Scalp

Scalp conditions are different from alopecias, but conditions like dry scalp can cause hair loss or slowed hair growth as secondary symptoms, if left untreated. If allowed, some scalp conditions can cause hair loss.

Notes are again added to indicate issues that pertain to African American women, specifically.

1. Seborrheic dermatitis. Also known as seborrheic eczema, seborrheic dermatitis is the most common form of dandruff and is caused by a genetic sensitivity to malassezia yeast.Note: This dandruff, characterized by greasy scales, affects people of different races equally. However, there are differentiated treatments for people of African descent, owing to the dry nature of our hair that isn’t shampooed as frequently as the hair of other ethnicities.
2. Irritant or contact dermatitis. Skin-irritating chemicals found in relaxers and some shampoos, conditioners and other hair treatments can cause itchy, dry scalp and flakes. Depending on the severity, inflammation and pustules may also develop. Irritation can also be caused by excessive heat used near the scalp, or cold and dryness in the environment.Note: Dry scalp, which is so rampant in the black community, is sometimes a manifestation of irritant dermatitis. This may be due to a single cause, or a combination of irritating product chemicals, excessive heat used during styling and living in cold and dry climates.
3. Psoriasis. This is an autoimmune condition that is characterized, in the scalp, by small, dry, silvery flakes attached to the skin. It is believed to be primarily a genetic condition that has environmental triggers, like stress.
4. Pityriasis amiantacea. These are layers of scales that adhere to the hairs. This is usually accompanied by the presence of staphylococcus bacteria. In other words, it is a staph infection.
5. Folliculitis. This is the infection and inflammation of hair follicles.Note: The form known as folliculitis keloidalis primarily affects black men, and at times black women, in the occipital area at the back of the scalp. This is believed to be caused by the sensitive nature of the occipital area of the scalp combined with the use of hair clippers.
6. Acne miliaris necrotica is a sparse form of acne of the hair follicles.
7. Ringworm of the scalp, or tinea capitis, is a circular fungal infection that can cause hair breakage and loss in the area.Note: Scalp ringworm likes dark, damp conditions. So if you’re protective styling, don’t leave the style in past the recommended time period, and make sure your scalp dries thoroughly when you cleanse it.

As mentioned above, it’s important to note that untreated scalp conditions can trigger others. For example, when scratched, the itchy flakes of seborrheic dermatitis, irritant dermatitis and psoriasis can develop into a bacterial infection of the scalp – pityriasis amiantacea. Irritant/contact dermatitis can develop into hair loss.

Time for Trichology Q&A!

Q. Can’t hair loss just be treated with natural remedies? When there are oils around that can help stop hair loss and encourage hair growth, like castor oil, why is a trichologist even needed?

A. If you choose to use natural remedies, remember that there is often more power in a formula that contains multiple hair growth and scalp health ingredients.

Another reason to see a trichologist is that if you have alopecia, there might be an underlying health condition behind it. Hair loss can be battled with natural formulas. But any underlying medical condition should be identified, also, to ensure the war is won.

A trichologist will team up with a medical doctor, or refer you to another specialist, if he or she suspects there to be an underlying medical condition.

Q. What happens at a trichologist visit?

A. Of course, a trichologist will examine your hair and scalp. A trichologist also looks at hair and scalp conditions holistically, so you can expect questions that will help the trichologist determine whether your personal environment and genetics are affecting your hair and scalp.

After the trichologist completes the evaluation, treatment may be suggested or dietary and lifestyle advice offered that will improve the state of your hair and scalp.

Q. What is the difference between a trichologist and a dermatologist?

A. A trichologist is a licensed specialist, but not a medical doctor. A dermatologist is a medical doctor that can practice  trichology, when necessary, but may not have the same level of experience dealing with hair and scalp issues as a trichologist would.

A trichologist can only recommend over the counter medication. A dermatologist can prescribe medication or perform biopsies or other medical procedures.

Do Natural Trichologists Exist?

Yes! Many sell their own anti-hair loss/healthy scalp product regimens online. Others even focus on black hair.

Trichologist Dr. Linda Amerson and HaircareEssentials.com, Arlington, Texas

Dr. Linda Amerson specializes in black hair. Visits can be scheduled through her website and Dr. Amerson’s products are also available for sale there.

Patou Salon And Spa, Washington, DC

French owner of Patou Salon and Spa, trichologist Patou Castay, gives free trichology examinations with every salon appointment. She also crafts relaxers and other products with botanicals and lower percentages of hair straightening chemicals.

Trichologist Lisa Akbari of Lisa Akbari Salon, Memphis TN

Lisa Akbari sells natural products and regimen kits, does hair consultations and offers natural hair licensing. Check out her radio show Ask the Hair Doctor!

The Trichology Clinic at TrichOOrganics, Westmeath, Ireland

TrichOOrganics owns the Davines brand of organic hair products, including the NaturalTech line that complements their trichology practice. Luckily Naturaltech is also sold in the U.S.

Trichologist David Satchell at the Eucaderm Hair Loss Clinic, Eastbourne, UK

David Satchell treats patients using his all natural, hand-crafted products and vitamin supplements for the hair and scalp. His products are sold internationally. There’s a marvellous selection of testimonials on his site. Having practiced trichology for some 40 years, Mr. Satchell is convinced that natural regimens work better than medicinal prescriptions.

Are you are experiencing unusual hair breakage, hair loss or hair miniaturization? Does your scalp itch, burn or flake? See a trichologist as soon as possible!

If you’ve already been to one, share with our readers what recommendations you received in the comments. You can help us spread the word about trichology and give hope to others suffering from hair loss by sharing this article on social media.

Is A Peruvian Weave Worth Trying?

Nina: A never ending barrage… That’s all it is. People assume just because you’re black, you ought to know everything about black hair.

But the reality is that there are many of us out there who are black. or have hair that acts black and we do want to evolve and experiment with our locks, but we can’t. Why? Because we just don’t know how, period!

To complicate things, on one hand they tell you Brazilian hair is excellent quality, and in the same breath they swear that Peruvian virgin hair is the best for your hair. So if everything is so excellent, how am I supposed to know which is which? How do I even know who to believe?

In fact Nina, while you’re putting your honesty on front street, you admit you can count the number of times you’ve been tempted to try a Peruvian hair weave, but then chickened out when you realized just how little you know about hair extensions, and your own hair in general.

All you really want is  some reliable advice that’s simple, clear and googleable.

BHS: We totally get you Nina.  Believe us when we tell you that we do understand. Even Einstein started from somewhere, so you can too.  But calm down and stop ranting. Grab a coffee. Take a power sip, and read on.

The first thing you need to know is what we mean by hair extensions. These are artificial hair integrations that add length and fullness to human hair  You attach them in different ways that include clipping, taping bonding or micro linking them onto your own hair.

We’re not asking you to go there, but just know that Peruvian virgin hair comes from the South American country of Peru. What is important to know is that the hair extension itself was invented and patented in the 1950s by an African-American hairdresser named Cristina Jenkins.

Nina, don’t let anybody confuse you. Virgin Brazilian hair is NOT the only quality hair extension out there. Depending on your hair texture, structure and preferences, some even prefer Peruvian virgin hair to Brazilian virgin hair. If you’re highlighting as you read, note that:

Virgin Peruvian hair is one of the best types of hair extensions on the market. 

Characteristics of Peruvian Virgin Hair:

1. Coarseness – It’s mostly negative whenever we think of the word coarse. But Peruvian hair is dense and coarse, meaning  it blends more easily with your hair. This is one of its biggest pluses.  It’s also coarser than Brazilian and Indian hair.  Again due to its coarseness,  Peruvian hair works very well with thicker hair.
2. Manageability – Hair is shiny and can be styled in many different ways. It’s easy to color, and holds curls extremely well. This is very important for those who prefer a curly look.
3. Virgin Peruvian hair is durable and combines the strength and body of Brazilian hair, and the smoothness of European hair. 
4. Volume –  Provides incredible volume, yet still lightweight and soft enough to retain its beautiful, silky texture.
5. Easy Maintenance – Can still look presentable even during those busy times when we tend to not care for our hair the way we should.  As long as you follow the care instructions, virgin Peruvian hair does not stress you by shedding and tangling.

Ok. Here’s a common scenario: You know lots of women who wear a Peruvian weave, and it rocks on them. You’ve heard a lot of positive things and since personal testimonies are the best, you’re sold on the  Peruvian weave. That’s the one you want because you like it.

Nothing wrong with that, but before you sprint out and spend your hard earned money, pause. What kind of Peruvian hair extension would be best for you or more importantly, for your hair?

Types of Peruvian Hair Extensions

Peruvian hair comes in 3 types

Peruvian straight: beautiful, long-lasting shine and luster

https://www.dhgate.com/product/peruvian-girl-hair-straight-10a-unprocessed/387305350.html

Peruvian wavy: looks and feels really natural when touched, more so than even Brazilian or Indian hair.

https://hairforqueens2.com/products/3-bundles-7a-peruvian-body-wave-virgin-remy-sew-in

Peruvian curly hair:  easy to maintain; good choice to give you that youthful, fresh look.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Grade-6A-Peruvian-Kiky-Curly-Virgin-Hair-3-bundles-Peruvian-Curly-Hair-Cheap-Human-Hair-Unprocessed/1256183_32371001854.html

Peruvian virgin hair extensions  – silky soft and natural-looking with lustrous bounce-back body –  great for African-American hair textures. 

Regardless of the kind of Peruvian hair extensions you choose, these short videos will show you:

How To Install A Peruvian Weave  

Peruvian hair – full sew in weave

Peruvian hair – seamless quick weave install  

Peruvian full weave braid-in bundles – no glue, thread or clips

Know What Hair Extensions You’re Buying

What does Virgin Peruvian hair look like when you purchase it?

Peruvian deep wave hair with frontal closure

https://www.dhgate.com/product/13-4-lace-frontal-closure-grade-7a-peruvian/373838536.html

Fourteen inch straight natural color Peruvian hair clip hair

http://www.premiumlacewig.com/

Peruvian hair bundles

https://www.okayhair.com/1-pcs-6a-straight-virgin-peruvian-hair-weave-weft-8-30-inch-natural-black-p-159.html

Peruvian virgin hair drawstring

https://www.dhgate.com/product/fashion-real-hair-ponytail-hair-extension/399287760.html

Whether you’re just starting out with weaves or even if you’re a seasoned adventurer when it comes to styling, virgin Peruvian hair gives you lots of elbow room for look, style and even color. Remember that your look is not just about hair. Partner your choice of hair extension and style, with your skin undertone, face-shape,  eye-color, and makeup. It’s the total look that counts.

Be Inspired to Explore

Peruvian straight hair – jet black with bangs – striking contrast with hair and lip color

https://www.dhgate.com/product/peruvian-virgin-hair-lace-front-wig-straight/394491515.html

Peruvian curly virgin hair – kinky flame candy color with graded roots; fuses flawlessly with skin tone

https://www.premierlacewigs.com/peruvian-virgin-hair-candy-curl-a-lace-closure-with-3-bundles-deal.html

Peruvian body wave hair – slick & shine; for that feminine, reliable go-to look

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Peruvian-Body-Wave-Lace-Frontal-Wig-Peruvian-Human-Hair-Lace-Front-Wigs-Black-Women-Peruvian-Virgin/32699671784.html

Peruvian virgin wavy rocks!

Common FAQs About Peruvian Hair Extensions

Q: I’m starting to understand, but still a little confused. What are the differences between Peruvian hair extensions and Brazilian hair extensions?

A: Compared to Brazilian hair, Peruvian hair is more coarse. It can come in light brown, deep brown or darker colors. Although both have similar characteristics, Peruvian hair is  known to withstand varying degrees of temperature better and tends to curl more when wet. Also, because of its natural fullness and body, fewer bundles are needed for a full installation.

Q: I was told to look for a hair color that matches the skin undertone – warm, cool or neutral.  What colors are available?
A: Peruvian hair is available in many colors. These include:

• Black
• Dark Brown
• Medium Brown
• Red

Q: What are the differences between Peruvian wavy, curly, and straight?A: Good question. Here’s what you should know:

• Peruvian curly hair has a characteristic tight wavy pattern, which is why it’s often steam curled.
• Peruvian wavy hair is your best bet if you want looser waves that are not as tight or curly as Peruvian curly hair.
• Peruvian straight hair has a silky smooth feel and is typically straight.

Q: I live in a hot and humid climate.  I was told that Peruvian hair is one of the best options. Is this true?

A: Absolutely. Durability in hot and humid conditions is one of the strongest qualities of Peruvian virgin hair.

Peruvian Hair & Ethnicity

• blends well with almost all hair types
• blends perfectly with African American, relaxed and natural hair
• particularly well- suited for Afro-Caribbean hair and textures

Care & Styling Tips For Peruvian Virgin Hair Extensions

• Resists sun and heat damage, but remember that it does have a tendency to curl slightly when it’s wet. This means you might need to straighten it a little after styling.
• Though strong and durable, it’s important to wash and moisturize Peruvian hair regularly.
• Due to its rich, deep color, it can be can be dyed without losing its shine and hair quality.

• When styling, use a heat protector to promote hair longevity and prevent it from frizzing, especially in humid temperatures.

• For straight Peruvian hair weaves, brushing is best done with a paddle brush.  You should brush your hair regularly (at least in the morning, and before going to sleep).
• For curly Peruvian hair weaves, brushing is best done with your fingers or with a wide tooth finger comb.  Remember to start from the tips of the hair and work your way towards the roots and scalp.

• Use a pre-conditioning treatment before shampooing, to lock in as much moisture  as possible in the hair.
• Wash your hair extensions once per week or once every two weeks.   Before washing, make sure the hair is  brushed and tangle free.

A lot of people just go straight out and purchase a Brazilian weave because their friends say it’s the best. Yet isn’t it  interesting that what is really best is often subjective?  Even when this isn’t the case, every individual’s experience with hair extensions is unique.

So, rather than take a hit and miss approach and purchase based on hearsay or friend-say, why not invest some time and digest what you’ve learned here on BHS, about Peruvian and other types of hair weaves. This way, even if  you’re new to hair extensions, or just considering trying something different, you can do so armed with the info that you need to make the best hair decisions for YOU.

We’re here to help you every step of the way. We’ve created some very informative articles to help you gain a better understanding of virgin hair extensions, as well as other resources to help you take better care of your hair in general.

You know what they say: Ask and ye shall receive. So, even after reading these articles, you might still need some more info to help you decide whether to go for a curly, wavy or straight Peruvian weave.

Questions? Just ask. We’re right here and you will get an answer.  BHS is our nest. We live and breathe black hair. So track us, and stay connected. We’re hair for you.

What’s With the Flakes… Is It Dry Scalp or Dandruff?

In almost every culture, dandruff is lumped in with a lack of good hygiene. That’s a dangerous thing! Not just in social terms, but for the health of the scalp, itself. People see flakes and get to scrubbing their scalp with shampoo, sometimes daily, or (horrors!) twice daily. Over time, what happens? If your scalp is sensitive or dry, it is only prone to becoming moreso.

Yet people with dandruff do, indeed, need to shampoo more often than those with dry scalp. The thing is, it’s extra important to know which condition it is when you’re seeing flakes. Seek a dermatologist’s advice if you’re unsure. You don’t want to end up washing dry scalp with shampoo twice a week, right?

Is Dandruff Different From Dry Scalp That’s Itching And Flaking?

There’s a pretty big difference between dry scalp and actual dandruff. A lot of the time, when people think they have dandruff, what they have is a severe form of dry scalp. That’s because when the dryness gets extreme, the outer skin cells die of dehydration on the surface of the scalp. Then flakes begin to fall.

Dandruff is quite a different thing. It can feel like dry scalp and itch like mad, but the formal name for dandruff is Seborrheic Dermatitis, which is yeast-related. When Seborrheic Dermatitis appears in babies, it is referred to as cradle cap. Adult cradle cap, then, is Seborrheic Dermatitis.  

This form of dermatitis feeds on the scalp’s natural oil production: its sebum. Sebum is waxy and greasy. So applying wax-based and oily products to the scalp for moisture is a mega no-no here! You’ll be feeding the production of dandruff instead of relieving the itch.

The yeast that triggers dandruff in some people is called malassez and is actually present on everyone’s scalp. Those who have a predisposition to sensitivity for this yeast develop dandruff. So you know, you can’t “get dandruff,” if you’re not predisposed to it – no matter how much malassez yeast is present on your scalp (Journal of Investigative Dermatology).

What Causes Dry Scalp?

It’s weird, though, because even though dry scalp and dandruff are two separate conditions, flaking up happens for many of the same reasons. That’s because a person can have Seborrheic Dermatitis, but won’t necessarily have flare-ups 24/7. Many times, dandruff flare-ups are triggered, just like dry scalp flakes are. Here are the most common reasons why:

1. According to Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, author of The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair, a deficiency of B vitamins can cause a predisposition to both dandruff and dry scalp.
2. Stress puts your bodily systems under tension, causes some ailments and exacerbates others. If you have itchy scalp, Murphy’s Law likes to play with stress in embarrassing ways: meaning, anything that can go wrong, will go wrong! Have you ever noticed that in the middle of stressful conversations – right when it’s going to look real bad – your scalp starts itching like mad? Stress causes scalp flare-ups.
3. Of course, genetics can give you a predisposition to either dry scalp or dandruff. There’s still relief, though. As you’ll see further down in this article.
4. Climate can also aggravate symptoms. If you live in a dry climate, the moisture in your scalp is getting whisked away regularly. If your scalp is already dry, this can spell a lot of irritation to your scalp. (One major irritant: flakey, dry, itchy scalp has trouble growing healthy, nourished hair!)
   Cold and frigid climates also dry out the scalp, the same way they dry out your skin. A scalp with Seborrheic Dermatitis needs moisture, too. So what happens if it doesn’t get hydration? Your scalp will then increase sebum production when it gets cold, which in turn increases your dandruff!
5. Too-frequent cleansing, whether it’s with a gentle shampoo, dry shampoo, natural cleanser, cowash formula, conditioner or a vinegar solution… anything that is removing the natural oils from your scalp and hair is going to leave them dry, to some degree or other.
   We found that black girls with Seborrheic Dermatitis are able to keep dandruff away by cleansing and exfoliating twice a week. More than that might irritate your scalp, but of course, this depends on the person. If you have dry scalp, once a week is the maximum.
6. That said, beware of product buildup! Flaking product buildup can mimic dandruff. More importantly if a heavy, wax- or petroleum-based product builds up on the scalp, it can irritate both dry scalp and dandruff.
7. Seborrheic Dermatitis makes the scalp highly sensitive: to stress and also to product ingredients. The chemicals, and even some natural ingredients, found in shampoos, conditioners and stylers can irritate the symptoms and cause a dandruff flare-up.
   On the other hand, the condition of dry scalp, as well as its symptoms, can be caused by harsh chemical ingredients in hair care products.
   Let’s take a closer look, below.

The Traditional Use of Harsh Chemicals (Or Long Live Flakes and Itch)

The products used in traditional styling and care methods of black hair contribute to the discomfort of dandruff and dry scalp. Here are some examples:

1. The usual suspects! Permanents in their various forms for black hair: relaxers, Jheri Curls (and offshoots), and texturizers can all adversely affect the scalp. The Department of Dermatology & Venereology College of Health Sciences in Nigeria found varying adverse effects on the hair and scalp after the use of relaxers.  (All three permanent variations use similarly harsh chemicals to permanently alter the hair.) Out of 250 participants in a relaxer study, 60 women (24%) suffered from scalp itching/irritation and 37 (14.8%) from dandruff. The study only included women who had relaxers done professionally.
2. Shampoos that contain the foaming agents sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate or similarly drying chemicals tend to be very drying and even irritating. Unfortunately, this includes many popular dandruff shampoos. If you have Seborrheic Dermatitis, some better care choices are included in the next section. There are also many alternatives to shampoo, for those with dry scalp.
3. Because Seborrheic Dermatitis is a more complicated form of sensitive scalp, it’s a good idea to steer away from products that have allergy-causing chemicals, period. If you are a research buff, EWG Skindeep is a cosmetic product and ingredient index that rates the toxicity of ingredients and can satisfy your need to know. If you’re not a research buff, we sure are. Check back for more articles on product ingredients.

So How Can You Nix Dry Scalp?

Despite the similarities in how the conditions of dry scalp and dandruff are provoked, the treatments of the two conditions are entirely different.

How to Get Rid of Dry Scalp

If you’re looking for dry scalp remedies, the rule of thumb is to moisturize inside and out. That means:

• Drinking plenty of water
• Fortifying your scalp by using an oil treatment prior to cleansing. Shea butter mixed with a natural oil like sesame is great for this purpose.
  • Note!  Ever “got dandruff” after applying shea butter to your scalp? Even if lightened up with an oil, shea butter contains oleic acid, which is great for dry scalp. But the yeast that causes Seborrheic Dermatitis loves it, too! So if you have dandruff, stay away from Madame Shea.
• Consuming foods with healthy fats: salmon, avocado and the like. The goodness will make it around to your skin, scalp and hair, too.
• LOC-ing your scalp. Because dry hair is epidemic for us, almost all products made by black companies for our hair are, by default, made to combat dryness. They are very nourishing! When you find a good formula that’s void of drying chemicals, massage it well into your scalp, and afterwards apply it to your hair. If you use the LOC (liquid, oil, cream) method of locking moisture into your hair, don’t forget to the same on your scalp.

If your dry scalp is genetic, you will find relief from using these methods. Still you might not get rid of the dryness completely. A lot depends on the individual person.

Looking to calm Seborrheic Dermatitis? Try anti-fungal ingredients like zinc pyrithione in your care products. This will help lessen the discomfort and flakes.

Here are a few products to try:

Mild Dandruff: Dead Sea Spa MAGIK Mineral Shampoo

https://www.chemistdirect.co.uk/dead-sea-spa-magik-mineral-shampoo/prd-3dh?utm_source=blackhairspot.com&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=BHS-Blog-Post-Links&utm_term=BHS-Term&utm_content=BHS-Content

This product has salicylic acid, to aid exfoliation, and zinc pyrithione, which is antifungal. The shampoo is for mild dandruff.

Moderate Dandruff: BIOM8 – Skin Conditioning Oil

https://www.biom8.com/?utm_source=blackhairspot.com&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=BHS-Blog-Post-Links&utm_term=BHS-Term&utm_content=BHS-Content

This is an all natural, oil-based product that is anti-fungal in nature. It’s great for moderate Seborrheic Dermatitis of the scalp or skin. Most anti-dandruff products are very drying, and therefore best to be used sparingly. Because this is an anti-fungal, moisturizing oil, it’s great for Seborrheic Dermatitis. It’s even perfect to use as a dry scalp treatment.

Severe Dandruff: Extina® (ketoconazole) Foam, 2%

http://www.dermatologypro.com/Products?utm_source=blackhairspot.com&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=BHS-Blog-Post-Links&utm_term=BHS-Term&utm_content=BHS-Content

Ketoconazole is also very effective against severe cases of dandruff. It is available by prescription as a leave-in foam, so you won’t have to wash your hair more frequently than our hair and scalp can tolerate. It was developed for black women as an alternative prescription to ketoconazole 2% shampoo. Like the shampoo, this foam still requires twice daily usage.

Recap and… Quiz!

To recap, dandruff and dry scalp are very different conditions; although, both might give you flakes and itching.

1. Technically, dandruff is Seborrheic Dermatitis – basically a yeast allergy. You have to have a predisposition to it, either because of genetics or due to a vitamin deficiency. You can’t “get dandruff.”
2. Dry scalp, on the other hand, can also be genetic or even climate-based. But there are many things you can do to alleviate it or get rid of it entirely. This depends on the person.

If you look after your scalp consistently, with knowledge and care, you will see a difference in its health. This will also positively affect the hair that grows out of your scalp.

Okay, it’s quiz time everyone! Listen to what vlogger JustJamiexo says about how cowashing affects her scalp. Would you guess that her flakes are due to dry scalp… or dandruff? (Hint: The vlogger says she must cleanse with a stripping, sulfate shampoo.)

Post your answer in the comments, and visit us again for more learning fun!

Does your baby have cradle cap? If so he/she also might have eczema cropping up, too. Why? Seborrheic Dermatitis is the same as Seborrheic Eczema, according to the New Zealand Dermatological Society. Ignore the haters. It’s not that your baby is dirty! It’s a predisposition to yeast sensitivity. And don’t let auntie so-and-so give him a lollipop, either. Cradle cap can be triggered by sugar (wink).

Got a ton of hair in your comb or brush, and still wondering if shed hair is normal? It is, but… breakage is different from shedding. Shedding is a normal part of the growth process. If the hair that fell still has the little white bulb at the end, it’s a shed hair. If that little sucker broke off, call an ambulance. This is a breakage emergency!

Well, maybe not that serious. But breaking strands is your hair’s way of telling you something’s not right. Hair breakage is the result of hair damage. And if you’re seeing a hair snapped here, and there, chances are high that your hair is more damaged than you realize. After all, whatever caused the breakage isn’t happening to just one hair.

Unfortunately, a whole lot of hair has been breaking off as part of our collective history. This brings hair breakage close to being part of the black cultural experience.

A Little History Behind Black Hair Breakage

Photo source: https://craiglaurancegidney.files.wordpress.com

One of the first recorded instances of follicular damage in black people was in 1968 (Dermatology Service, Walter Reed Medical Center). The cause was suspected to be the hot, petroleum-laden hair grease that would clog hair follicles when pressing the hair with a hot comb. In 1983, also due to pressing (heat damage), microscopes uncovered bubbles on the surface of hot-combed hair strands. Hot combs were literally frying our hair, and the broken strands were there on the kitchen floor for all to see.

Then hair straightening trends switched to relaxers (chemical damage). Perms dissolve the main strength of hair strands – their protein. Chemical damage is often coupled with the more modern forms of heat damage. Because, of course, to get that hair to swing, the next phase would be to blow dry it, then to flat iron or heat curl it.

These hair styling practices cause the protective layer of our strands to be compromised. The initial phases of relaxing start out with a healthy cuticle that has all its shingles fully present, laying down nicely and reflecting light for a nice sheen. As time passes, the cuticle and the inner hair shaft become damaged, because hair cuticle shingles are missing, allowing the inner core of the hair shaft to absorb more harsh chemicals and lose moisture.

Over time,your hair becomes easy to straighten and heat curl, but this is due to severe damage. Basically, your hair has given up the struggle to maintain its original state. In the old terminology of hot comb kitchens, the hair is now “trained.” It is also thinned from breakage.

Self-Diagnosing Natural Hair Breakage

Hair breakage is the natural result of over processing and mistreatment. Most of us went natural to avoid the cultural practices that cause hair and scalp damage. So we cut off our damaged strands, or transitioned them out, and beautiful curls and coils started popping up everywhere. We’re all floating around on a cloud of loveliness, then BAM! One day, little half strands start appearing in the tub on wash day.

What happened?! If your natural hair is breaking, it’s time to analyze what might have caused it. So ask yourself when the problem started, then figure out what caused the breakage based on the four types of damage below.

1. Mechanical damage. There is some form of excessive manipulation, here, due to the accessories you use, the way you style, detangle, comb, brush, dress and sleep. Anything that comes into contact with your hair and pushes, pulls, gathers or sits against it is manipulating it. Maybe one style is being done too much in your hair, or too tightly? Or maybe you are using the same type of hair accessories all the time? Perhaps a little more patience is needed to detangle properly?
2. Chemical damage. Relaxers are the most common form of chemical damage, but it doesn’t stop there. What about hair products that contain harsh chemicals? Maybe your hair can take it. Maybe not. Has a new product entered your routine that could be causing your hair to break?
3. Heat damage. Diffusers, dryer hoods/caps, blow dryers, flat irons – using heat regularly, even for naturalistas, increases the risk of breakage.
4. Follicle damage. Hair follicles can become damaged due to chemicals or tension. When damaged, hair grows in an already weakened state and breaks much easier than it normally would have. Do you have a care routine for your scalp that cleanses, deep conditions and stimulates it for new, healthy growth? It’s worth it.

How To Prevent Breakage?

The truth is, sometimes we don’t maintain the level of care our hair and scalp actually need. If we did, we’d probably prevent a lot of hair breakage. Here are a few things to be mindful of if you’d like to keep your hair healthy and on your head:

• Protect your hair from friction and tangling at night, i.e., don’t rest your hair directly on a cotton pillowcase. You’ll wake up to parched, breakage-prone hair.
• It’s not a good idea to use cotton headwraps or friction-causing hats without a silk or satin barrier. Otherwise, you’ll have similar results to sleeping on a cotton pillowcase.
• Make sure to cleanse and condition under protective styles like weaves and braids, otherwise, your hair follicles could become clogged and the hair underneath break-ably dry.
• Also, don’t leave a protective style in beyond its expiration date. This causes tangling and matting.
• Don’t do white people stuff! That means staying away from oil stripping shampoos and conditioners, washing your hair like a TV commercial, drying it with a towel like in the movies or always wearing tight buns and ponytails. This rough handling causes breakage.
• Be careful about product ingredients. Whip out your magnifying glass, because some products marketed to naturalistas contain harsh alcohols and follicle clogging petroleum derivatives.

Say you’ve skipped some or all of the above in your hair maintenance routine, and now your hair is breaking off pretty badly. Don’t give up hope! The good news is that breakage can be stopped, or at least slowed down, with henna treatments.

How To STOP Hair Breakage?

Henna isn’t just for dyeing the hair. Henna coats the entire hair shaft and effectively brings a new beginning. But by itself, henna can really dry hair out. So to avoid the inherent dryness of henna add clay powder (your choice) and raw honey with warm water to the mix.

Ever heard the adage that Cleopatra used three main ingredients to maintain her beauty: clay, henna and honey? Well, it’s a teeny bit mythical, because upper strata ancient Egyptians used wigs. Forget the wig cap, girl. They actually shaved their natural hair and were wigging it like many of us are today.

Wigs aside, though, there’s a lot of truth to the myth. Maybe it’s one of those little sayings that were meant to pester women with natural hair until they discovered the secret: clay, henna and honey together! Mix the three and you get crazy hydration, thicker strands (if yours are thin and prone to breakage) and cuticle repair! The cute highlights are a bonus.

Don’t forget to deep condition afterward though..

Alert! Hair Breakage Can Also Indicate a Form of Alopecia

Sometimes, hair breakage is due to a more serious and complicated issue. If you have a patch of broken hair surrounded by longer hair, and the area is starting to thin, it could be a form of alopecia called central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA). The problem here is that damaged and dying hair follicles are producing a weakened form of hair, according to the Department of Dermatology and Cutaneous Surgery, University of Miami.

The recommended Western treatment is corticosteroids and minoxidil, to basically put your hair follicles on production overdrive.

Traditional Indian Medicine, Ayurveda -on the other hand- uses natural kitchen ingredients on the scalp to stimulate the hair follicles better than minoxidil solutions for women. Ginger juice is one, says the Asian Journal of Pharmaceutical and Clinical Research. Here’s what to do.

1. Grate ginger finely into a bowl and manually squeeze out the juice.
2. Add one part juice to three parts of sesame oil.
3. Sesame oil has high levels of copper, which strengthens fragile hair and stimulates follicles similarly to minoxidil (NY Academy of Sciences).
4. Massage into the scalp.
5. Leave on for two hours (or overnight.)
6. Rinse, cleanse and condition.

With this method, your hair will grow out from the follicle stronger (and probably quicker too!) Combined with your monthly henna/clay/honey treatments, you should see more repair and far less breakage.

Is your hair breaking? Have you diagnosed the real reason why? What are you doing to repair the damage and keep breakage at bay? Let us know in the comments. And don’t forget to share us on social media!